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How to get around while you’re in Russia, travel as Russians travel, the marshrootka !

What is a Russian marshrootka ?

A marshrootka is a transit van with windows, a 9 or 10 rear seat configuration, and space for 2 passengers up front with the driver. It is perhaps the commonest form of transport on the public roads in Russia, fast, cheap and reliable. These are used by anyone and everyone, from builders to office workers, from 8 to 80 years of age, and are usually white or yellow. They can be seen all day long at any time, and although the driving appears reckless, with the regular “cutting up” of buses and hooting of horns, the drivers are quite clearly experienced and un-fazed by the apparent random, cut and thrust habits of Russian drivers.

Every driver has a route, the driver will begin at one end of his route and will stop when beckoned by a passenger at the roadside ( using an outstretched arm moving quickly up and down in a “slow down” motion ) at one of many unofficial stops en route. These stops are not marked in the same way as bus stops, people just get to know where they are, and a stranger will often see a group of people standing in or by the road as if they are expecting something – they are expecting a marshrootka. The route number will be on a piece of white card in the windscreen or emblazoned on the sides in a haphazard fashion along with the major roads identifying the approximate route. It’s not uncommon for people to open the door just to ask where it’s going then shut the door, much to everyone’s annoyance.

Each passenger slides open the side door and gets in, sliding the door shut behind them, or if there is room in the front you can sit with the driver. The space inside is cramped, dark, uninviting and on a hot and sticky day almost unbearable, but if you want, or need to get from A to B quickly with a minimum of fuss this is the way to do it.

Once inside, you pay the driver * by handing him the money while he is driving, he doesn’t slow down and there are no tickets, he just keeps a mental note of how many passengers got in and how many have paid. As with other crowded methods of Russian transport it is not unusual to see money passed from the back of the vehicle to the driver and any change passed back down again by several passengers – to westerners this seems strange at first but it’s a surprisingly effective practice and works well. Seat belts are optional, if you can find one !

There are recognised stops for most marshrootkas throughout the route, but if you want to stop somewhere else, then as long as the driver can stop with the minimum of fuss and be on his way as quick as possible usually it’ll be no problem, but don’t expect him to go off the route.

Most marshrootkas are owned by private organisations with employed drivers, their motivation is, more passengers, more money and the standard of driving reflects this policy – fast and hard with little courtesy paid to passenger comfort.

Don’t expect a smooth, comfortable or sometimes even safe ride.

As the emphasis is clearly on maximising profit, the “vans” are often filthy, in poor condition internally and the safety maintenance is questionable to say the least. The almost unrelenting pressure to keep every vehicle on the road and the weight on the rear axles often manifests itself in a substantially low back end and “crabbing” ( when the leaf springs on older models have broken and the steering is affected ).

These “taxis” are a clear target for the local militia and regularly attract attention.

Photos and more transport information in Russia

Tattoos ” Marshrootka drivers are often ex-prisoners who often display an array of tattoos on their hands and forearms denoting their status in the prison hierarchy during their time inside, a curious distraction to foreigners interested in local customs and traditions ”

Marshrootkas will often double up as the preferred method of transporting an open coffin to the cemetery, just remove the seats, add a little black decoration to the windscreen and ” hey presto ! “, a hearse .

* Marshrootka drivers charge between approximately 11 Roubles in a provincial town for one journey of any length, even the entire route if you wish. A bus or tram journey will cost 9 Roubles for any distance. In larger towns and cities the charge will be proportionately higher.

If you’re claustrophobic, out for a Sunday drive or find being in close proximity to coughing, spluttering people difficult to stomach, then perhaps marshrootka travel is not for you. If, on the other hand you want to experience real Russian life, are in a hurry or want to get from A to B cheaply, then this form of travel will be perfect.

About the Author

When I met my wife on the internet 7 years go I didn’t follow the usual path of bringing her to my European country, I wanted to understand her background, her views and lifestyle…I moved to Siberia and still live here. The experiences need to be seen to be believed but you can read about them at www.rurev.com

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